Purest of taste

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THIS year’s Martell Pure Gourmet was a clear indication of how less is indeed more. This ingredient-led cuisine suffices in its simplicity to satiate the pickiest of culinary aficionados, in line with Martell’s selective approach in the creation of its cognacs.

Hosted at The Pod in Petaling Jaya, the recent dinner featured ingredients that were carefully selected and then masterfully prepared and crafted in sync with Martell’s philosophy of creating its cognacs.

The pairing of three selected cognac – the Martell XO, Martell Cordon Bleu and the Martell Création Grand Extra – with each course was the drill that night.

A preliminary introduction and foreword were given by chef Christophe Pienkowski, who is the resident chef of Martell & Co at the Château dec Chanteloup in Cognac, France, together with Jacques Menier, Martell & Co’s heritage director.

“Organic and gourmet are the two words of tonight,” said chef Emmanuel Stroobant, television’s Chef in Black, who had put together the six-course meal.

He revealed that the ingredients were sourced from all over Malaysia, including Sibu in Sarawak, and as far as Vietnam. One in particular came even further.

The ocean trout for the second course, the organic Nasu, was flown from the pristine waters of Tasmania.

The extravagance of this dish, surprisingly, came from just how little that was put in to ‘spice’ it up. It was simply the ingenious assembly and complementation of different ingredients to bring out the purest of taste.

Smoked to perfection, the trout was paired with the Martell XO for its slow developing fragrance that brought out the essence of the fish.

For the fourth course – the foie gras (Martell-marinated foie gras terrine with ‘fizzy’ grapes, fig jelly and brioche crumbs) – Stroobant returned to the dish’s French roots. Paired with the smooth fruity fragrance of the Martell Cordon Bleu, it brought out the essence of the dish.

Pienkowski, who together with Stroobant coordinated the night’s dinner, explained that while Pure Gourmet shares the quality of the French cooking principles, it is not bound by them.

“In fact, it encourages the infusion of one’s cuisine culture to create that unique gastronomic moment.”

Menier’s comments on the distinctive longer aftertaste of the Martell XO were brought to mind in the fifth course that night – the beef short rib.

The organically-farmed Australian Angus beef short rib was cooked for 72 hours at a constant 62°C, rendering the meat as tender as possible without jeopardising its flavour. The steak was served with a side of kabocha seed-crusted pumpkin, marble of vegetables and wasabi-scented split jus.

The modesty of the ingredients and the dedication in their preparation brought out the sweet silken finish of the cognac, making it a match made in heaven.

The Martell Création Grand Extra flawlessly wrapped up the night with the café, pousse-café – a coffee royale with tobacco-infused cream fleurette, vanilla crème brulee and orange macaroon.

“It’s the path. When all taste is gone, what’s left is its purest essence,” said Menier, referring to the Martell Création Grand Extra and the complexity and aftertaste of the cognac almost reaching its maximum age.

All in, the night’s offerings were indeed pure delight.