Savour four versions of this traditional dish

The mouthwatering Penang assam laksa.

Sour and spicy. This is what gives laksa its irresistible pull.

Northerners say nothing can clear a sinus as effectively as a hot bowl of Penang asam laksa.

The Kelantanese have their own version with coconut milk.

In Johor, spaghetti is used instead of rice noodles.

In Sarawak, it’s mihun (rice vermicelli). Their laksa paste recipe also used to be one of the state’s best-kept secrets.

The laksa promotion at 10 Binjai and The 39 Restaurant in PNB Perdana Hotel and Suites On the Park gives diners a chance to slurp up all four versions.

(From left) Sarawak laksa, Kelantan laksa and Johor laksa.

What made this sampling session unusual was the hotel’s marketing and communications manager Zaid Jamaludin inviting us to take away the laksa.

An overnight fridge test is a sure sign of confidence that a dish can hold up on its own. Sure enough, the reheated versions still tasted delicious.

To ensure authenticity, the kitchen team made up of chefs from different states, raided their family recipe books.

Mackerel was used in the gravies for the Penang, Kelantan and Johor version. This choice of fish is considered to be less fishy.

We say “gravy” and not “soup” because of the generous presence of fish. This is said to be the authentic way. The watery bases, we were told, are a result of economical measures.

During the sampling session, the Penang asam laksa with pineapples was the most sour. Not in a way that would make the diner pucker. Rather, it encouraged an appetite.

The Kelantan version, which had coconut, was a little rich. But it was delicious. Toppings of finely sliced torch ginger and long beans reminded one of kerabu.

The Johor version with spaghetti somehow hit it big with one of the diners who normally did not like fish, so it spoke of a great achievement on the chef’s part. The prawn paste in the soup was believed to have done the trick.

The clever blend of lemongrass and galangal could have also played a part. Or could it be that the kerisek had lured the fussy little eater with its enticing aroma?

Prawn lovers will find appeal in the Sarawak laksa. A base of tiger prawn shells gives it a full-bodied flavour.

This noodle dish requires one to slurp it up the moment it lands on the table. Rice vermicelli may be thin but it has great powers of absorption! Wait too long and you might have to request for extra gravy. Still, it’s a good excuse for a free top-up.

The idea for soft rice noodles drenched in fish broth is said to have its genesis in fishing villages.

According to oral history, laksa might have been invented by fishermen at sea who felt it would be a waste to throw away what was deemed unsellable.

So, they boiled these up to feed the crew.

Fish is not the only option.

In Perak, there is even one version that calls for eel. But the chef felt it might be a tad too exotic for city folk.

Back on land, herbs and vegetables were added as toppings to create a well-balanced meal. This might be when Vietnamese coriander or daun kesom, an endemic plant in South-East Asia, might have found its way into the dish.

Its effectiveness in neutralising the overpowering fishiness may be one reason for its popularity in the dish. The fact that it’s known as daun laksa is testament to this.

The laksa promotion is on until Sept 30. It runs in conjunction with the hotel’s rebranding exercise.