Hugel continues family’s wine business

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BORN into a wine-producing family, Hugel & Fils director Etienne Hugel grew up in a house overlooking the vineyard.

“The Hugel family have run the company since 1639 and my brothers and I are the 12th generation who are continuing this family legacy,” said the bubbly 53-year-old who was recently in Malaysia to promote the French wine brand.

He was the special guest at a Hugel Wine Dinner at the Shang Palace restaurant in Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

Hugel said growing up within the wine-making industry, he was very comfortable with the whole process and decided that he wanted to be part of the family business.

“None of us were ever forced to join even though we were born into the family. It is very important to pick those who are interested and competent to take over the business. Even I would never make my children join the business if they’re not interested.

Hugel: The Hugel family has run the company since 1639.

“Fortunately for me, my daughter Charlotte is only 20 and she just can’t wait to get into the business. It’s exciting for me because this girl can sell refrigerators to the Eskimos,” said Hugel with a laugh.

The Hugel estate is situated in Alsace, a region with one of the driest micro-climates in France.

“It’s located at about an equal distance between Champagne and Burgundy. There is a patchwork of soil there so we have about eight variety of grapes,” he said.

While he is more involved in the day-to-day running of the business, Hugel still helps out during the harvesting season, the busiest time in a vineyard.

“I leave the wine-making to my brother but I’ll always be there during harvest. I have not missed a single vintage,” he said proudly.

Coming from a family with a long tradition in the wine business, Hugel said he had been exposed to Asian food and loved spicy food.

Nice combination: The savoury Double-boiled Fish Maw with Supreme Chicken Soup paired with Hugel Riesling.

“I’ve always been fascinated by Asian cultures. My children have been eating with chopsticks since they were six,” he said.

Catering to the Asian market, Hugel & Fil’s website (www.hugel.com) features several versions in Asian languages like Korean, Japanese, and even two separate versions for simplified and traditional Chinese characters.

“Our wines are well-suited to Asian food because they are as flavourful. We’ve been in countries such as Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore for about 60 years and in Malaysia for the past 30 years. If chopsticks could talk, they would choose my wine,” said Hugel, much to the amusement of the guests at the wine dinner.

He said that white wines, which were usually served chill, were well-suited for the warm Asian climates, providing for a refreshing pairing with flavourful Asian food.

The wine dinner featured a pairing of Hugel’s white wines with dishes specially prepared by the Shang Palace chefs.

For starters, the Shang Palace Trio Hot Dish Combination was paired with the Hugel Gentil, the only wine in the label that is made from a blend of grapes.

The savoury Double-boiled Fish Maw with Supreme Chicken Soup was then paired with the Hugel Riesling.

The Wok-fried Diced Beef with Goose Liver and Basil Leaf was a flavourful creation and complemented the aromatic Hugel Gewurztraminer.

As guests tucked into the fine dishes, Hugel described wine as being the best “social lubricant”, oiling together human characters.

“Wine brings people together. When it’s good it makes people happier,” said Hugel as he called for a toast.